The X-T1 is a fantastic camera for macro photography because of its unique blend of features and functionality. The cherry on top is that the X-body T1’s has a button on the front that allows you to rapidly switch between S, C, and M modes when needed. The a6000 and the X-T1 are two excellent examples of the favorable direction in which mirrorless autofocus systems are progressing in the current generation of cameras.
Beginning with a half-press of the shutter release button, you may lock onto your subject with one of the single AF points available, and the camera will automatically follow it. It works well in favorable lighting circumstances, but if your subject is not separated from the backdrop, it might be difficult to tell them apart. You may use AF-C and AF zone for side-to-side tracking to get a higher level of sophistication.
The memory card is accessible via a compartment on the right-hand side of the camera, which is distinct from the battery compartment. Similarly, the X-T1 UI is not very user-friendly, although it is more basic than the Sony menu. In contrast to the a6000, the X-T1 will not restore you to the point in the menu where you left off when you switch off the camera. Keep in mind that, owing to the X-many T1’s exterior dials, you won’t have to spend much time navigating through virtual menus at all.
Exposure compensation, shutter speed, ISO, drive modes, bracketing, double exposure, and panoramic are some of the options available. There are two tiny dials on the front and back of the camera that are used to change the aperture and fine-tune the shutter speed. Given that this is a high-end camera, there are no designated Auto modes on the body, but you do have the option of setting the shutter speed and ISO dials to A. If your lens has an aperture dial, you may also set it to A if your camera does not.
The difficulty is that it is quite imprecise when it comes to predicting the topic on which you wish to concentrate. It will take numerous attempts at half-pressing the shutter button before the camera finally guesses what you want in the center of the frame. (I know this because my brother has an X-E2, which I have had the opportunity to try out.) Fuji was unable to integrate Face Detection into their autofocus area and single-area focus systems, which I find perplexing.
Everything, in my opinion, is a matter of physics and common sense. Because visual quality is almost inconsequential, the decision between the two will ultimately come down to personal choice. To be sure, there are a few things that may entice you in one way or the other depending on your preferences. Because of the outstanding viewfinder and manual controls on the X-T1, it may appeal to individuals who want to forgo virtual menus and LCD displays.
You may compare the optics available for the two cameras in the Fujinon X Lens Catalog (X-T1) and the Sony E-Mount Lens Catalog, which are both accessible on the internet. These powerful cameras should be sturdy and well-built, have rapid autofocus and shutter speeds for recording fast-moving action, and produce images of professional-level clarity. In this purchasing guide, we’ve compiled a list of all the current interchangeable lens cameras available for purchase for less than $2000 and suggested the best of them. As of 2015, the Fujifilm X-T1 boasts one of the greatest electronic viewfinders available on the market. Within the pentraprism-like hump in the center of the camera is where it is housed.
On the body, there are a total of 6 function buttons that may be customized. Furthermore, Fujifilm cameras get important firmware upgrades on a regular basis, so prolonging their useful life and increasing their value on the digital market. The electronic viewfinder is positioned in the center of the camera, inside a hump that resembles a pentaprism. The texture on the grip is notably less in size than that of the A6000, which is unfortunate given the camera body itself is both somewhat bigger and heavier than the A6000. The addition of a thumb grip to the hot shoe makes a significant impact.
If you want to work with raw data, locate some samples from the XTrans sensor and experiment with them (this is my greatest fear with Fuji). Below is a side-by-side comparison of the technical specifications of the two cameras, which should help you quickly assess their differences and similarities. Did this review assist you in making a choice on your camera purchase? If you’d like to see a different side-by-side camera evaluation, just use the search bar at the bottom of this page. Alternatively, you may click on any of the hyperlinks in the table below to see comparisons that others have found interesting.
So, in essence, you’re arguing that the size of the sensor and its capacity to capture light aren’t important anymore with today’s technology? It does important to me, which is why I did not want to participate in the micro 4/3 camp in the first place. When comparing photos taken with m4/3 cameras to those taken with APS-C and full-frame sensors, the photos taken with m4/3 cameras have a “flatness feel.” The dynamic range and low-light capabilities of m4/3 cameras are also inferior to those with bigger sensors, as previously stated.
I believe that the functions are badly organized and that some of them are incorrectly titled. Having said that, the camera will always return you to the point in the menu where you left off, regardless of whether you merely exit the menu to shoot or turn the camera off altogether. Both the X-T1 and the A6000 have been discontinued, although they may still be obtained on eBay in good condition. The Fujifilm X-T1 has been replaced by the Fujifilm X-T2, while the Sony A6000 has been replaced by the Sony A6300. The official Fujifilm and Sony websites provide further information about the two cameras, including user guides and manuals, as well as information on connected accessories.
Similarly, the sophisticated movie mode on the a6000 makes it a compelling option for individuals who like both stills and video. Having said that, firmware version 3.0 added a few enhancements to the X-video T1’s mode, including the ability to shoot in 24p and complete manual control over your settings. (However, for some reason, the camera is unable to shoot at an ISO lower than 400.) You may also use the Film Simulation Modes to enhance the look of your films, and the big viewfinder makes manual focusing easier.